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''The first impression
is the last impression, 'the saying, though
modern, can be held true for the traditional Hindu
Costumes also. The reason, being in spite of
Western influences on the modern Fashion Industry,
the ethnic element and the traditional touch to
any Indian Costume is still alive. The Bharatiya
test itself is responsible for maintaining this
tradition. Indians have been very fashionable from
the very ancient times. The sculptural evidences
found so far depict that cotton cloth has always
been worn in India by the masses while the rich
favored the use of silks. Elaborate head-dresses
and jewelry were even sported by men. The earlier
dress code revolved around wrapping the body with
varied lengths of cloth.

From the earliest
period of Indian proto-history, the Harappan
culture, the evidence about textiles and dresses
is scant but not unimportant.
The survival of an actual fragment of cotton
cloth, and the upper garment draped around the
body like a shawl as seen in a sculpture, offer
interesting examples, although it is difficult to
give to these pieces any kinds of names. The lower
garment worn by women, much like a sari or Dhoti
of later times, is reminiscent of the descriptions
of the Niti in Vedic literature. Elaborate head
dresses, with tremendous decorations and
pannier-like projections, give some clue to the
range of fashions prevalent in this regard.

Women would use one length of piece as the blouse
and tie the other round their waist as a sari.
These would accentuate their figures, making them
look attractive. The typical costume of the Indian
women, are the Sari and the Ghaghra Choli. The
diverse cultures and traditions have greatly
influenced the styles of these costumes.
Sari, the six-yard length of cloth is still draped
beautifully in the most intriguing manner. It is
worn with a stitched blouse. Usually six metre in
length, the sari in its most accepted form is worn
with a blouse and petticoat. The sari is pleated
in the front, tucked into the waistband of the
petticoat, and the end is flung over the shoulder,
displaying the Pallu, which has intricate designs
on it. There are regional variations in the way it
is worn.

In the western states, the Pallu is displayed in
the front. In Maharashtra, the sari is 9 metre
long and is worn tucked between the legs.
Half-saris are worn by young girls in the south
and the north-eastern regions. By accessing the
iterary sources in the Vedic period followed by
the Pauranic or the classical period, we get a
whole body of material with regard to the
materials for costumes.It is with much pride and
beauty of words that these textiles and materials
are referred to. Not only do we hear of yarns (tantu),
warp or loom (tantra), and woof (otu) but of
'well-woven' and 'perfumed' garments in the
category of vasas.
Materials like woolen
blankets of a fine kind (kambala), dhussa (dursba)
and panvad are spoken of, but so also is ksbauma,
most probably linen. Garments made of the skins of
animals as worn by gods and sages and tribals
alike are referred to. In terms of costumes,
however, one is by and large in the world of
timeless garments, both for women and men.
The Dupatta: The veil
that women still use so extensively in India,
something like the Dupatta or Odhani of modern
times, has its early prototype in the Vedic
period, and various words signifying the same
article of apparel are used, with differences
between one and the other that may not be easy to
identify. The words that we hear of are
Avaguntbana, Niringi, Nirangika, Mukhapata,
Shirovastra and Yavanika
Sanskrit writers like Bhasa, Shudraka, Bana and
Bharavi, among others, weave long passages around
the theme of veils worn by women. Thus, Bana in
his fanciful description of the ladies of
Sthanvishvara says that the blue veil, which they
put on was 'a mere customary appendage', really
not necessary as the bees hovering around their
faces, being drawn there by their sweet-smelling
breath, formed a sufficiently dark 'extinguisher'
or veil. When Magha describes the ladies of
Krishna's households being gazed at for a long
time 'by the people as they had removed their
veils', he implies clearly that generally such
ladies wore veils and, therefore, could not be
seen ordinarily by the people.

The Ghaghra Choli: The traditional costume of the
Gujarat and Rajasthan states is Ghaghra Cholis.
With their glittering mirror-work they look most
attractive. This comprises of long pleated skirts,
known as Ghaghra or Lehenga, and is worn with twin
blouses. The blouses have elaborate mirror-work
and patch-work on them and are very colorful. It
is designed to leave the back and midrib bare.
These type of dresses are mainly worn by women in
Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana and Gujarat.
The Kashmiri and the
Himachali women wear a similar dress. Theirs is
thicker to suit the climate and the embroidery
done on them is particular to the region. In
Lucknow, the baggy pyjamas are replaced by tight
and long leggings that form many folds at the
ankles. These are called Churidars, suggesting
'bangles'. So comfortable is the dress that it is
worn mostly by working women across India.
Variations of this dress are worn in the northeast
and southern states. These are known as
half-saris. In Meghalaya, the women favor the
Jyensyem, a traditional dress consisting of two
ankle length pieces of cloth gathered at the
shoulders. In Arunachal, Nagaland and Mizoram they
prefer a blouse and a length of cloth wound around
the waist and running down the ankle like a skirt,
but more closely resembling the male Lungi of the
south.
Since ancient times, the most favored dress of the
Indian men was the Kurta (an upper garment like
shirt) and Pyjama( a garment like loose trousers).
Although the length of both the garments differs
from state to state, the outline remains the same.
In the rural areas, the Lungi or Dhoti (long piece
of cloth wrapped around the legs) is worn.

The head dress in
India for men can be a subject of study. The head
dress is regarded as the symbol of pride. This of
course is a tradition. Modern Indian men have
adopted a suitable outfit i.e. shirt and trousers.
Head dress:The greatest variety, judging from the
evidence of sculpture and painting that has
survived, lay perhaps in the head-dress.
Basically, the head-dress made from a fabric, as
distinguished from a crown worn by kings and
deities spoken of in literature, took the form of
a turban of an unstitched kind.
There are many names
that one comes upon, including Ushnisha, Kirita,
Patta, Veshtana, Vestanapatta, Shiroveshtana. The
manner of wearing the turban evidently varied as
much in ancient India as it did in medieval times.
We have elaborate verbal descriptions, as also
visual evidence, that point to the fondness of men
for this article of apparel.

Though salwar kameezes
were to be the original heritage of northern
India, in today's time, it has become the most
popular dress of the modern metropolitan cities.
It includes a baggy pair of pyjamas called the
salwar, worn with a long and flowing shirt called
kameez. The Kashmiri and the Himachali women wear
a similar dress. Theirs is thicker to suit the
climate and the embroidery done on them is
particular to the region. In Lucknow, the baggy
pyjamas are replaced by tight and long leggings
that form many folds at the ankles. These are
called Churidars, suggesting 'bangles'. So
comfortable is the dress that it is worn mostly by
working women across India.
Though salwar kameezes
were to be the original heritage of northern
India, in today's time, it has become the most
popular dress of the modern metropolitan cities.
It includes a baggy pair of pyjamas called the
salwar, worn with a long and flowing shirt called
kameez. The Kashmiri and the Himachali women wear
a similar dress. Their is thicker to suit the
climate and the embroidery done on them is
particular to the region. In Lucknow, the baggy
pyjamas are replaced by tight and long leggings
that form many folds at the ankles. These are
called Churidars, suggesting 'bangles'. So
comfortable is the dress that it is worn mostly by
working women across India.
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